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New in the Mountaineers Outdoor Expert series: instruction for the beginning to intermediate rock climber by an internationally known guide.
*Author is an American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) certified rock guide and instructor
*Learning exercises reinforce key skills
*Step-by-step technique illustrated in over 150 photos
Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the most common foot positions, hand grips, and body positions and how to use them precisely, from the smear to the crimp to the twistlock. Going beyond static moves, he emphasizes a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency--a style that makes the most of your strength and your time on the rock.
With an emphasis on safety and how to stay within your abilities, Luebben teaches how to evaluate potential hazards and then avoid them. Topics addressed include: risk management, face climbing, crack climbing, gear, knots, anchors, belaying, toproping, sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch free climbs, rappelling, aid climbing, bouldering, training, and self-rescue.
- Sales Rank: #368523 in Books
- Brand: MOUNTAINEERS BOOKS
- Published on: 2011-03-01
- Released on: 2011-03-01
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: .60" h x 6.82" w x 8.46" l, 1.34 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 224 pages
- ROCK CLIMBING: MASTERING BASIC
Review
A comprehensive guide for getting started in rock climbing or improving intermediate skills. -- Tacoma News Tribune
If you're not a rocket scientist but love to climb, this 2004 National Outdoor Book Award winner makes climbing...simple. -- Fort Collins Coloradoan
The book's photos and graphics are easy to understand and master, even for the most ground-bound among us. --Idaho Falls Post Register
From the Author
We were sitting at the base of the Nautilus, a rock formation known for prickly off-width cracks in Wyoming's Vedauwoo, when Sylvia Luebben asked me if I would consider writing a new edition of her late husband Craig Luebben's Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills.
A kaleidoscope of thoughts went through my mind as I considered her offer. I was honored that she would ask me. I was sad to think that Craig wasn't alive to do it himself. I was intimidated by the undertaking of trying to update an award-winning book.
As I sat there below the Nautilus, one of Craig's favorite rocks, his daughter Giulia was climbing a tricky 5.9, and my kids were playing around on the rock slabs at the base. Climbing is very much alive in our families, and while I've mostly stepped away from the big alpine due to the time away from the family, I go rock climbing a few times each week. Some people go to the gym, ride a bike, or do yoga. I climb.
I pondered the accident that killed Craig, an ice wall collapse in the North Cascades; the kind of accident that could happen while walking under an icy roof or driving a car across an avalanche zone. There is one big difference: our culture accepts the risk of walking under icy roofs and driving on wintery roads.
A couple of weeks later I told Sylvia I'd be honored to take on the new edition. My inspiration was partly his family's steadfast belief in the beauty of climbing, partly his and my friendship that took us up the first one-day winter ascent of the Diamond, up numerous first ascents in the Utah desert, and to China and Canada on ice climbing adventures, and partly a shared passion for showing others how fun it is to climb safe and strong.
I've been asked numerous times how I could continue climbing after losing a friend to the sport, and I'm sure people wonder how Craig's wife and daughter continue to climb after losing Craig. It's a good question, one I don't entirely know how to answer, but the best I can do to explain is that life is risky. Some people avoid nearly all risk. Some of them have high blood pressure. Some have strained relationships with their naturally risk-taking children. Some look back from old age with regrets about the things they didn't do when they were young.
To people like Craig and I, risk is part of life; it's how you manage the risk that matters. Rock climbing is the safest of the different genres of mountaineering, and modern climbing equipment and attentive technique make it quite reasonable to climb a hundred days a year for an entire lifetime and never have a serious accident.
In the end, that's what inspired me to pour my heart and soul into this new edition: Craig and I dedicated our lives to sharing the valuable methodology of calculated risk-taking. For much of our society, voluntary risk is a contradiction. For us, being bold while staying safe, teaching while learning, and taking risks while avoiding danger all make perfect sense - and those who have tied into a rope and discovered the beauty of climbing tend to agree.
I've climbed with many partners, including partners who were paraplegic, strong, weak, blind, obese, old, young, athletic, timid or fearless - and nearly every one of them found climbing to be one of the most rewarding experiences of their lives.
Perhaps my mountain guide father, Mike Donahue, put it best: "Life is not found by avoiding the doing; life is a mountain to be climbed."
About the Author
Craig Luebben has been guiding professionally for more than twenty years. The author of How to Rappel!, How to Ice climb!, and other titles, he has written for magazines including Climbing and Rock & Ice. He has opened many new routes on four continents. He currently serves on the board of the AMGA.
Most helpful customer reviews
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Great! Well rounded book, with a lot of useful information and photos.
By fnine
I'm new to the whole idea of rock climbing and I wanted to know more about the basics and fundamentals. From what I can tell, this is a good starting point, talking not only about methods and safety and terminology, but also how to respect the areas and fellow climbers etc, its about the lifestyle too. It can be exciting and dangerous, but thats all part of it, if you're smart and be careful, you shouldn't have a problem. Even if you are just vaguely interested in climbing, this book is a good resource in my opinion. Lot's of good information in these pages.
7 of 7 people found the following review helpful.
Great book - from an old friend
By Z. Henry
I began climbing in 1985. In 1992 and 1993, I had the fortune to become friends with Craig when he and Lizz Grenard opened the climbing wall at Health Works in Fort Collins, Colorado and brought me on as an on-staff belayer and then as route setter. Craig and Lizz taught me so much and took me from climbing 5.9s to redpointing a 5.13b. Craig used to lend me his ice gear when I was too broke to afford my own. We lost touch over the years and I was heartbroken to hear of his death a couple years ago. I am now introducing the sport to my girlfriend, and was thrilled when this book was listed first among my search results. I bought it in a heartbeat, knowing it would not disappoint. Craig was one of the foremost mountaineering guides around and will be missed. Those new to the sport are lucky he has passed on some of his knowledge in this book! Highly recommended to anyone just discovering the sport (of course - I am a bit biased ;-) )!
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Get it before you get hurt!
By R R
If you want to know the AMGA standard way of doing all those things you have been doing wrong, this is a great buy. I wish more climbers would read the first 100 pages, because there are far too many who can't even manage to do a half-acceptable break under slide.
Don't be that bad example at the climbing gym everyone avoids: buy this book and practice it!
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